Introduction

This tiny oil-rich Islamic sultanate lying on the northwest coast of Borneo is known chiefly for the astounding wealth of its Sultan, its tax-free, subsidised society, and the fact that (statistically at least) its population enjoy one of the highest per capita incomes on earth.

Despite the ostentatious modern public buildings in the capital, most of the country remains undeveloped and untouched by the outside world. Alcohol is virtually unobtainable, there's no nightlife to speak of, and the political culture encourages quiet acquiescence to the edicts of the sultan.

When to Go

Weather's not much of a consideration when heading for Brunei - whenever you go it's bound to be warm and wet. September to January is the official wet season, when things are even warmer and wetter. Things tend to close down during Ramadan, when all Muslims must fast between dawn and dusk for a month, so it's worth checking if your visit will fall in this period.

Events

Most festivals are religious celebrations or mark the anniversaries of important events in the sultanate's history. The dates of religious festivals are based on the Islamic calendar, so the dates are not fixed. Ramadan, the Islamic month of fasting, is one of the most important events on Brunei's calendar. Chinese New Year takes place in January/February, and Brunei's National Day is 23 February.

Brunei's accommodation can be fiercely expensive. There is only one budget accommodation option in the country, but it cannot always be relied upon for a bed. Mid-range accommodation is a bit of a disaster, though some top-end hotels are not that much more expensive than the equivalent in Malaysia. Transport and food are more expensive than in Peninsular Malaysia, but not outrageously so.

Although the official currency is the Brunei dollar, Singapore dollars are equally exchanged and can be used. Although it's comparatively easy to change both cash and travellers' cheques, banks will give you a better rate (around 10% more) for travellers' cheques.

Bandar, the only town of any size, seems too big for its 60,000 inhabitants. It's a neat, clean, modern city with wide roads and overstated public buildings. Omar Ali Saifuddin Mosque is one of the most impressive modern mosques in the East. Originally built in 1958, the giant golden-domed mosque stands close to the Brunei River in its own artificial lagoon. The interior is just as luxurious, with Italian marble walls, luxurious carpeting and an elevator.

Kampung Ayer is a centuries-old collection of 28 water villages built on stilts in the Brunei River. Around 30,000 people live in this area, which is a strange mix of modern and ancient, and a visit here will be a real highlight of your trip to Brunei.

Bandar Seri Begawan has a couple of excellent museums: the traditionally-oriented Brunei Museum and the lavish Malay Technology Museum, which includes exhibits on water village architecture and technologies used by the people who live in them. Istana Nurul Iman, the Sultan's magnificent palace, is open to the public only at the end of the fasting month of Ramadan. Despite the friendliness of the populace, Bandar's nightlife is nonexistent and the streets are deserted at 9pm.

Jerudong is the playground of the sultan, where he indulges in his favourite pastime, polo. Jerudong Park is a huge complex with a polo stadium, luxurious stables, a golf course and trapshooting and croquet facilities. Unfortunately, you'll only be allowed in if you've been invited.

The hoi-polloi head to Jerudong for the Playground, a massive new amusement park with a huge range of rides. Behind the park is Jerudong Beach, with stalls selling fish and some great cliffs. Jerudong is just north of the main highway between BSB and Tutong - it's best visited by car.

In the middle of the river near the Istana Nurul Iman, Pulau Ranggu is home to a large colony of proboscis monkeys, with their hugely distended noses. There's also plenty of macaques here. If you take a water taxi along the river around sunset, you may get a glimpse of the monkeys.

Batang Duri is an Iban longhouse on the Temburong River, about 40km southeast of BSB. If you visit here, introduce yourself to the chief before you start wandering around. From here you can get a boat to the Kuala Belalong Field Studies Centre, which researches tropical rainforest species. The forest around here is rich in flora and fauna - there are walking trails and limited accommodation. There is also a zoo, Taman Batang Duri, nearby where you can see civets, monkeys, otters and birds.

Often known as Pantai Tuton, this is a popular beach with picnic tables and a simple restaurant. It's on a spit of land with the ocean on one side and the Tutong River on the other, and the white-sand, casuarina-lined beach is probably the best in Brunei. The nearby town of Tutong has a market every morning. The area of beach at the end of the road is quiet and ideal for camping. Tutong is on the main highway, halfway between BSB and Seria, and you can get there by bus.

This forest reserve contains the peaks of Bukit Patoi and Bukit Peradayan, which can be reached along a walking trail. This is the most accessible rainforest in Brunei, and the wildlife includes squirrels, treeshrews, moonrat and mouse deer. You won't have much chance of seeing these mainly nocturnal species, but you'll probably spot hornbills.

Wasai Kandal, about 12km (7mi) southwest of BSB, is a forest area with waterfalls and pools. A wide, easy-to-follow path leads past picnic ponds and pools to Air Terjun Tinggi, the most impressive falls. A rough track takes you to Air Terjun Rendah, another waterfall with its own picnic area. You'll need a car to get here.

Activities

Most activities in Brunei are of the organised, lycra-sports-gear, pay-to-play variety. The Hassanal Bolkiah National Stadium is of Olympic proportions and includes a track and field complex for keen runners, a tennis centre, squash courts and a swimming pool. Golfers can enjoy an international standard course at Mentiri Golf Club, and there's also a driving range near the airport. Hear the pins rattle at the bowling alley on Jalan Tutong.

History

Early Bruneian history is cloaked in mystery, although its believed trade links existed with China in the sixth century AD. During the 15th and 16th centuries, Brunei was a considerable regional power, controlling not only most of Borneo but parts of the Philippines as well, aminly due to its success as a port. Brunei's power waned following the arrival of the European powers to the region. The Spanish and the Portuguese were the first Europeans to arrive, but it was the British, who arrived in the region in the 17th and 18th centuries, who began to erode Brunei's influence. Sarawak was ceded to the British in the 19th century and a series of 'treaties' were forced on the Sultan as James Brooke, the first White Rajah of Sarawak, consolidated his power base. In 1888, the sultanate itself became a British protectorate. Brunei's territory was gradually whittled away piecemeal until, with one last flourish of absurdity, Limbang was ceded to Sarawak in 1890, thus dividing the country in half.

A British 'adviser' was assigned to the court in 1906, yet another compromise of the sultanate's independence. In 1929, just as Brunei was about to be swallowed up entirely, oil was discovered. British plans to make Brunei a part of the Malaysian Federation were quashed by a revolt in 1962. The Sultan suspended the constitution and opted for independence. The two countries signed a treaty in 1971 confirmed that Britain retained control of Brunei's external affairs.

The country has been under emergency laws ever since the 1962 revolt and mooted elections have never eventuated. In 1984, Brunei became completely independent, and underlined its new independence from Britain by joining ASEAN. Since then, it has moved towards Islamic fundamentalism. In 1991, the sale of alcohol was banned and stricter dress codes have been introduced. At the least sign of internal dissent, the Sultan on each occasion moved quietly but decisively to silence his critics, and thus far his power has gone more or less unchallenged.

In recent times, there have been pockets of disaffection challenging the status quo and agitating for a loosening of the rules. Arguments for change have been aided by royal scandals involving the sultan and by the profligate spending of the sultan's younger brother, Prince Jefri Bolkiah. The polo-playing playboy has been charged over misappropriation of US$16 billion of state funds and is now suffering the indignity of a royal grounding and a reduction in his pocket money. Both the sultan and the prince found themselves in legal bother when a former US model threatened court action over sex abuse allegations. A tightening of the purse strings to offset both a recent plunge in oil prices and the prince's spendthrift lifestyle seems to suggest that Brunei's wealth isn't limitless after all, although it's hoped that shrewd investment will provide for all Bruneians when the oil runs out.

Culture

Bruneians are predominantly Malay, and customs, beliefs and pastimes are very similar to those of Peninsular Malaysia. Adat, or customary law, governs many of the country's ceremonies; there is even a government department responsible for preserving ceremony and advising on protocol, dress and heraldry.

Brunei is a fairly strict Muslim country and a Ministry of Religious Affairs fosters and promotes Islam. The constitution does, however, allow for other religions to be practised. The official language is Malay, but English is widely spoken. Jawi, Malay written in Arabic script, is taught in schools, and most signs in the country are written both in Jawi and Roman script.

During the height of the Brunei sultanates, brass and silver artisans produced finely designed brass gongs, cannons and household vessels. They were often embossed with designs of serpents and animals or verses from the Koran. Many crafts failed to survive the decline of the sultanate, but silverwork and weaving are two traditional crafts that have been preserved.

Environment

Brunei consists of two separate areas, approximately 30km (19mi) apart. Both areas are bordered by the South China Sea to the north, and by the Malaysian province of Sarawak on all other sides. Western Brunei is composed of hilly lowlands; the eastern part consists of a coastal plain rising to a height of 1841m (6038ft) at Bukit Pagon. Most of Brunei is jungle. Only 15 per cent of the country is cultivated, resulting in Brunei having to import 80 per cent of its food requirements.

Brunei doesn't have marked wet and dry seasons. Rainfall occurs throughout the year, but is heaviest between September and January. Temperatures are consistently between 24°C (75°F) and 31°C (88°F). Average humidity is 79%, making it a pretty warm and sticky place.

Getting There & Away

Most visitors fly into and out of Bandar Seri Begawan. Brunei has direct air connections to 27 destinations including regional Asian capitals and a number of Australian cities. Because of the difference in exchange rates, it's almost 40 per cent cheaper to fly to Brunei from Malaysia than vice versa. Departure tax is US$3 to Malaysia and Singapore and US$7 to all other destinations.

There are express boats between Bandar Seri Begawan and Lawas and Limbang in Sarawak, and the duty-free island of Labuan off Sabah. There are boats between Labuan and Sabah.

The main overland route is via bus from Mirir to Sarawak, but it's also a relatively easy matter (although fairly expensive) to travel overland between Limbang or Lawas in Sarawak to Bangar in Brunei.

Getting Around

Transport around Brunei is by bus, hire car or taxi. The public bus system is cheap and reliable but only in and around the capital. If you want to explore the hinterland you'll probably need to hire a car. Surprisingly, hitchhiking is a viable option in Brunei: a thumb in the air is still novel enough to get a ride although, like anywhere, it has its dangers and is not recommended as an ideal means of transport.